Rebasing Continues + Wights


I’ve based the two hordes of Zombies and two regiments of Revenants.  I’m leaving off the soil for now so I can keep working towards getting my list ready for the doubles tournament.

For the Revenants I used 14 and staggered them 4/3/4/3.  This gives a nice view from a corner angle and looks good from head on.  Still, I couldn’t see fitting more and getting between them to work on the soil.  And it doesn’t leave much room for diorama elements.


The Sculptamold as a filler for the bases works pretty well, but it does warp when it dries.  I’ve never noticed it before on terrain uses.  The hordes in particular had very strong bows.  But bending them in the opposite direction breaks the Scultamold and they sit pretty flat now.

I’m not sure it’s the best material since it’s a little heavy for the hordes, but it gives the unit some heft which feels reminiscent of metal models.  Just don’t pick up the horde by a single model.  🙂

Not sure how the Cart of the Forsaken (just made that up) in the nearest unit didn’t end up in the middle.  🙁  I’ve been working on my models very late at night and it must have been a tired mistake.  Ce’ la vie.IMG_9232

Here are my wights.  All Reaper and by choosing from the same sculptor you can get a pretty cohesive look.  The ones in the back are Bones models and are larger than the front row.  But I think it still works o.k.  Who says you can’t have a small woman become a wight?  🙂

IMG_9228It has been a very long time since I painted a new unit.  I forgot how to paint.  Still figuring it out.

I should add that Bones models are definitely a trick to work with.  I opted to prime them and the primer stayed tacky.  (A known issue.)  I very, very lightly primed them knowing that primers have a hard time curing properly.  *shrug*  I also thought of ‘priming’ them with Army Painter Anti-shine just to give them a matte surface to paint over.  I’m going to try it on my other Bones miniatures.  We’ll see.

I’ve gone ahead and painted over it anyway and the paint layers kill the tackiness.

But I’ve had the paint pull away from itself when it dries in some places (poorly primed areas) leaving a crackle pattern.  Small areas, and another coat covers it fine, but still an issue.  But for $3/model I’m not complaining.


KOW Movement Trays – My Conversion to diorama bases – prt 2

Before getting too much farther ahead, I wanted to get some soil down on a tray to get a feel of how easy the process is.  Getting paint, glue and soil between all the mini’s might be tough (it’s a little tricky in areas) and could affect my density of minis going forward.

First a base coat.  The sculptamold soaks thin paints like a stain on wood, but that leaves the high points a little lighter colored.  I’ve tried to find a color that would match the soil, but even a mottled look should be ok.



Having done a lot of reading on high end terrain/diorama artists I’ve consistently seem them use fine soil (actual soil) for their basing.  The scale is much more appropriate and depending on the look desired, it comes pre-colored.  (You can add pigments to it if you want to alter the color.)

Since this will be my technique for all my future terrain work, this is a great time to start practicing.  I dried a cupful of soil from my garden and then sifted it, and sifted it again, and then made my own ultrafine mesh to get the particle size small enough.  I punched hundreds of very small holes (~.5mm or so) in a sheet of copper screen for crafts.  Sifting was too slow so I punched another hundred or so.

Between making the screen and all the sifting, it took a little while.  IMG_9042

It took two applications to get good coverage.  Using thin glue, it didn’t cover the high points very well (similar to the paint).  Extra challenge – get it all covered before areas start drying.  I want to get this down to a single application if I can.

First layer was soaked with dilute pva and before it was dry I sprinkled on the second layer.  Second layer was much faster as a result and I might adopt the technique for the first layer using a syringe.

This photo shows the color pretty well but it’s not exactly right.  I’ll need to white balance my camera for the next shots.


I really, really like the effect.  So much more natural and realistic.  If you soak the second layer to lock it down the color darkens a lot.  Looks like damp soil.  I though it was too dark for my tastes so I left the soil as is on the trays.  It seems to be bonded pretty well once the loose bits are brushed off.  IMG_9041

Styrene strips have arrived so tray assembly ‘should’ go quicker now.

KOW Movement Trays – My Conversion to diorama bases

I didn’t see any trays on the market that I liked.  I’m not a fan of frames,  and I wanted to incorporate a damage tracker that didn’t affect the tray or the minis.  I want my trays to match the exact dimensions spelled out in the rules.  The best accuracy I have achieved for the following trays is about +1/-1mm, so pretty close.

I decided to build my own from styrene.  Cutting the styrene adds some time though.  I’ve been cutting the side wall strips using the Dupli-cutter and the Chopper II(a publically viewable reveiw is on my Patreon Page –  I’ve since ordered some strips that are close in size.  😉


Finally get my corpse cart on the table!


16 zombies feels pretty full since I’ll need to get in between them to finish the soil and vegetation on the base.


Dice tray for recording damage hangs on lip of the movement tray.  Fits snug and feels great when moving.  The walls of the dice tray feel a touch short but hold the dice pretty well.  I might make them .5mm taller.

Chapel work – Those damn windows…

IMG_3384Well, it’s been a while for an update. Just struggling to manage videos for YouTube, actual work and non-work life. But, I’m back and thought I would give a peek at some of the newest changes.

I was talking to someone (I can’t remember) about the windows and they suggested that I could board a couple of them up to help hide their disfigurement. Then suddenly it occurred to me that I could use the SB die cutter to create some lattice for them. About time I start putting that very expensive paper weight to use. So I cut some and decided that while I am at it, I should add some to the original building to help match them up. The windows were small on the chapel so I had to cut down the lattice quite a bit, but I still think it looks very effective.


You may also notice that I shaved down the support columns in the back. I think they look much more proportional now.



Lately I’ve been working to clean up seams and especially mold lines. Lord help me if I miss one. I’m sure Peyton will see it. 😉 It’s been a lot of milliput work, and there is still quite a bit to do, but it’s coming along.

After that, it’s rivets, rivets, rivets, and then nails in the wood. Then I can sit back and enjoy working on the chimney. I don’t know why I am looking forward to it, and it won’t be that fancy but I think it feels like a cap stone on the building. 🙂

Work on the Chapel Continues

So I have done more work on the Chapel.  The roof casts came out well (still need some cleaning) but I was happy with them, and when painted they should match the original.  I added wood around the frame using balsa foam.  I tried to carve them to match the existing wood, but looking at it later I see that I added a little too much ‘squiggly’ to the lines.  *shrug*  I’ll see how it looks once it is painted up.  I think that once I add the nails, and knowing it was an addition after the original construction, I think it will be o.k.

This photo is pretty overexposed, but I just don’t have time to re-shoot it.  I’ll probably re-shoot it next update anyway.  It doesn’t show all of the tiny details very well.

After I started slapping on windows and wood, I quickly realized that I had made an error.  The original building has so many 3-D elements added to it that the addition was looking very, very flat.  🙁  I have some plans to address that, but the first thing I wanted to incorporate was a band that compliments the original.

I used my Silver Bullet die cutter to cut out some symbols that match the feel of those on the original building.  However, they are a bit larger.  So after some thinking, I decided to stick with them, reluctantly.  My wife said they were o.k. and I respect her opinion.  🙂  That meant I needed to create a frame for them and I used some styrene strips.  I noticed that on the original there were lots of little rivets.  I broke out the Nutter, and popped some rivets on it.  The only solace I have in the size discrepancy is telling myself that when the addition was added the builder wanted to bling it a bit more than the original.  I will say the symbols came out fantastic.  The sun has such tiny points on it.  Really nice.  I added a griffon head among them to give it a slightly different flair.


I shot a video of this progress and right away I got comments on the roof join to the original building.  “Won’t the water pile up there and cause leaks?”  *sigh*  It is a fantasy world after all…  But one suggestion was adding some down spouts or flashing.  I’m going to give that some thought, but I have bigger fish to fry.  Bulking out the walls with some depth is going to be a little tricky since I didn’t give myself much room.  I will be adding brick pylons to the bottom, and I will be extending them up over the edge of the bottom wall so they will be semi-buttresses.  That will help.  A window or similar that boxes out a bit might be all that is needed after that.

The long wood lines of the edges bother me.  I was going to cut them to allow for the symbol runner to run around addition without a break, but that presented more work I didn’t want to deal with.  🙂  So, plans right now are to add steel strapping from the runner that wraps around the wood.  I can match them to the straps on the original building and it will really help to break up all that wood.  The pylons/buttresses will break up the bottom lines as well, so I feel o.k. about it at the moment.

After I get some of these things fixed, I will be carving a chimney for the new section.  I can carve it from balsa foam and match it to the original.  I’m actually looking forward to that part, and I’m holding off on it as a reward for dealing with those walls.  I really wish I didn’t slap those windows on so quickly.  But they are soaked with CA glue, so there is no going back unless I grind them off… Which I am not going to do.  🙂

Chaple construction continues…

I’ve done a little more work on the chapel. I pulled off the mold from the shingles and it looks pretty good. There are a few tiny bubbles in it that surprised me, but they are really quite small so no worries.

Building the rear section took longer than I expected. I wasn’t really sure about how to incorporate the sloping roof from the main building to the new addition. I originally was going to keep it shorter, but it just seemed to grow on its own. Then I had to cut down the roof height of the extension to make it look more aesthetically pleasing and better shaped.

Now I will need to think about how to dress it to make it match the feel of the chapel. I’ll be edging it in wood (brick seems to heavy for a suspended piece) and I’ll be using another cast for the rear. But the sides are quite broad. I’ll need to add some windows of course. I’ll tackle the dressing next session.  I’ll see how I can use the dormer windows from the mold I made of the original from the kit.

Matching the GW style of wood is going to be a touch tricky since its got such deep grain that is really tightly spaced. I’ve done some testing and I think I have a method that will work well. And the nails on them are really prominent. I may need to use some kind of pins perhaps. They really stick out… ??


New Terrain for Next Unplugged GT

I’ve started a new, very large terrain project. It’s a fun chance for me to let my whim take me where it will. I’m going to upload pics along the way showing how I am progressing so enjoy the ride. *smile*

Here is one of the smallest mold boxes I have made to date. I want to reproduce the dormer from the Chaple or is it the Manon from the ‘Fortified Manor’ kit. **Did you know that this has been discontinued???*

I was going to pour the rubber for the mold, but then I realized I am out of pourable silicone rubber. So I decided to make a brush on mold. Smooth-On gave me some Brush-On 40 to try out. It’s a nice urethane rubber actually. Here is the start of the mold making:

The plan is the build an extension off the back of the chaple the is a 1/2 story taller. I want to match the chapel as much as possible so I am making molds of the roof shingles as well.

This is just a part of a much larger project, but I’ll explain it more as I go. :)

My New VC 2500 pt List

Here is the list.

Total Roster Cost: 2500

1 Master Necromancer , 200 pts = (base cost 165 + Level 4 Upgrade 35)

1 Earthing Rod , 25 pts

1 Talisman of Preservation , 45 pts

1 Vampire , 142 pts = (base cost 105 + Level 2 Upgrade 35 + Shield 2)

1 Sword of Striking , 15 pts

1 Glittering Scales , 25 pts

1 Beguile , 15 pts

1 Dread Knight , 10 pts

1 Aura of Dark Majesty , 25 pts

1 Vampire , 144 pts = (base cost 105 + Level 2 Upgrade 35 + Heavy Armour 4)

1 Sword of Swift Slaying , 25 pts

1 Enchanted Shield , 5 pts

1 Dragonbane Gem , 5 pts

1 Red Fury , 50 pts

1 Wight King (Battle Standard Bearer) , 114 pts = (base cost 85 + Shield 4 + Battle Standard Bearer 25)

1 Biting Blade , 10 pts

1 Armour of Fortune , 35 pts

16 Skeleton Warriors , 105 pts = 16 * 5 (base cost 5) + Skeleton Champion Sarge 15 + Musician Mus 10 + Standard Bearer Std 10

1 Skeleton Champion , 10 pts

39 Crypt Ghouls , 390 pts = 39 * 10

1 Crypt Ghast , 20 pts

60 Zombies , 185 pts = 60 * 3 (base cost 3) + Standard Bearer Std 5

60 Zombies , 180 pts = 60 * 3

9 Crypt Horrors , 342 pts = 9 * 38

1 Crypt Haunter , 48 pts

1 Spirit Host , 45 pts

1 Spirit Host , 45 pts

1 Mortis Engine , 240 pts = (base cost 220 + Blasphemous Tome 20)


Thoughts:  I didn’t want to take two lord choices and so put character points into fighty vamps and Wight.  The dread knight is intended to be survivable through challenges.  Opponents need ld check at -4 or reroll to hit vs WS 8 and -1 to hit to boot.   Should do fine against heroes (most needing rerolled 6’s to hit hopefully) for a few turns but not sure about lords.  The other vamp is the standard red fury with rerolls for striking first.  *Note: Dreadknight kit I picked up off a forum so can’t take credit for it.*

I thought about Greg’s suggestion for lore master but with the Mortise Engine, but I figure I will be using it to cast VC spells and won’t want to dedicate to a light caster.  Arguments against this are welcome as I don’t feel confident here.  If I have three VC casters, I should get double of a few spells and should be able to push through some if first attempt is scrolled or dispelled.  Still I find having enough dice for three casters doesn’t always work well so only upgraded one vamp to lv2 as a result.  Mortise engine tome bonus however tends to stretch the dice.  Plus lore attribute of VC will be helpful to keep the horrors, heroes and engine alive.  (Saying that, all of these things tend to die in a single turn so perhaps that is wishful thinking.)

Toying with idea of putting all heroes in a zombie unit to give it some real punch.  With only two zombies in front (5 wide and 12 rows deep) it will reduce easy combat res.  Saying that, none of the heroes are super survivable so I will have to chose my combats carefully.  No st5 troops I imagine.  Or do you think dump them in the ghouls, or split them between the two?  (Dreadknight in ghouls buys him a turn in an unfavorable challenge from the ghast, perhaps longer if I can bring him back)  I like the idea of people afraid of a zombie unit.  *grin*  A deep zombie unit may be hard to move/wheel however and stay in range of general and mortise engine so that is something to consider also.

With two hosts, and another big zombie unit, I should be able to control movement for  a few turns and I wanted to fit a pair of bats, but points were getting thin.

Anything scary comes my way and they eat crypt ghouls backed by the engine.  Skellies are the obvious bunker for the necromancer.

After all of that, I would be most amenable to dropping the BSB as I find his role is limited.  His high toughness tends to keep him around though.  Wanted to give him a fair save (5+ ward) to help that (thinking the zombie unit of death again) rather than a magic banner.  Really not sure about that at all however.

Well, that’s the thinking at least.  Feed back appreciated.